A Tasty Failure



Last night's dinner was an attempt to recreate something I've had at a local bistro. There, the lamb shanks were braised in veal stock (and, I'm sure, something else) and served with ratatouille - which was eggplant, zucchini, squash, carrot and caramelized onion prepared with the braising liquid.

Sounds good, no?

Without giving too much away, I didn't get there. I ended up with something that I think anyone would have enjoyed being served in a restauarant, but it didn't hit the notes the bistro's version did, so I'm going back to the drawing board at some point (note: I have two more of these shanks in the freezer to experiment with) to figure it out.

On to the cooking...

Here's a pro-tip for your vegetable prep - take a couple sheets of plastic wrap and lay them down in the bottom of the sink. Toss all your vegetable garbage right in there as you're prepping.



Then, just pull up the corners of the plastic, bunch it up and voila...



No chasing carrot peel off the sides of your sink, no "garbage bowl" getting dirtied. Everything just balls up and goes right into the trash. Of course, this only works if you're able to get yourself to the point where all your veg is rinsed and ready to peel at the same time. Sink can't do double-duty with a layer of saran wrap at the bottom. I like this trick because I use my peeler so quickly that I can't shoot the peelings into a bowl. I need a bigger repository, but it totally sucks to have to pick individual peel pieces out of your sink's stopper and off the walls and such. Why not make it easy?



Here was last night's starting point - two 1lb. lamb shanks. If you look at the one in back, and see the taut layer of fat that runs along the side, you'll see something that looks a lot like silverskin. If you've ever had a beef filet that had a ribbon of something totally inedible running through it - not quite fat, but not at all chewable - that's silverskin. On beef, you trim. On these, I wasn't sure. I hadn't ever worked with lamb shank before, so it was a coin toss. Trim it, and risk losing some percentage of tasty, tasty fat, or leave it be and risk an inedible wrap around my lamb at the end. I chose to leave it be, and it was a good move. Despite the similarity in appearance, this fat wrap totally melted away just like it was supposed to, and kept the meat nice and juicy underneath.



Two weekends ago I went a little bonkers and decided to buy veal bones and make stock. If you believe Michael Ruhlman, and I do, "If there were one ingredient that the home cook could have that would transform absolutely his or her cooking, one that would put it close to the level of the professional chef, it's veal stock. This stock takes the flavors that are already present and, without inflicting its own flavors in braise or a stew or a sauce or a soup, elevates them. It's the selfless stock." Veal bones are also full of young fats and tissues, which gives the stock enhanced gelatinous qualities, which enhance the overall robust texture of any sauce in which you're incorporating the stock. From the pic, you can see I stored some of the end product in ice cube trays, and froze them for future use. I did a really outstanding job with this stock (using Ruhlman's "brown" veal stock recipe - brown = bones browned in the oven first), and when I pulled the cubes there was only a minimum of fat on top of each cube. Good stuff.

Oh, and I defrosted more than I ended up using, but simply returned the stock back to the trays and slipped it back into the freezer. Nice! I've got at least a quart more stock frozen waiting use, so you'll excuse me if I find a reason to work it into everything I do for the next little while.

After all the veg is chopped up (I made vegetable sticks, with the intent of having full sized veg pieces to eat as a side dish), brown the shanks.



This wasn't easy. The irregular shape of the shank prevented a uniform color, as they wouldn't sit comfortably flat in my French oven. This wasn't a big deal ultimately, as the business surrounding the bone on the lower half of the shank was largely fat, and melted off in its entirety over the cooking time.

After that, get the onions going.



Then, once softened, add the vegetable sticks and get the whole thing nice and hot.



It's crucial to get the veg heated up to a decently hot temp, as the next step is to start adding your liquid. Since wine goes first (for deglazing/burning off of alcohol), it's important that the contents of the pot are sufficiently hot enough to help the room-temp wine get up to steady simmer as quickly as possible.

Now, I originally added about 1.5 cups of Barolo. First off, why Barolo? Well, I bought a bunch of it last year August, and I was still sitting on almost a case. Why not treat myself? It's a great cooking wine, as it's dry and awfully flavorful. But I do regret using so damn much of it. I actually outsmarted myself before beginning the whole cooking process. What I did was to add all the raw vegetables and onions to the French oven, then add water to the point that looked right for the lamb to go in. Then, I removed the vegetables and the onions and dumped the water into measuring cups to see how much liquid I was going to need. What I didn't figure on was that vegetables at some state of cooking take up less volume than raw vegetables, and I overestimated the liquid I needed by a solid cup/cup and a half. I noticed this when I dumped the whole 1.5 cups of Barolo in. It filled the French oven over the veg to the point that I could have just added the lamb and been done with it. Seeing as I needed to add veal stock and tomatoes (and the rosemary sprig) as well, I ended up ladling some of the wine out and into the sink.

My beautiful, beautiful wine going down the drain. Sigh...



Anyway, wine cooks off/cooks down, then the veal stock and tomatoes go in and gets brought up to temp. After screwing up my liquid estimate, I just eyeballed this part. The whole thing is then brought up to a bubble.



Bonus here - all the stuff I had to prep to get that braise into the oven, and look how clean my kitchen is. Nice, huh? Also, in the video I mentioned using the parchment paper to hold the browned shanks while the veg/liquid was prepared, saving yourself from dirtying up a plate. I'd also recommend giving parchment paper a try instead of foil to line cookie sheets you're trying not to have to wash after use. I like it better than foil, as the heat is more direct from the cookie sheet (foil doesn't take on as much heat, paper allows the heat to go through more easily), and stuff that tends to stick to foil (freezer bag french fries?) doesn't stick to parchment paper. Oh, and I also use the stuff with my cheese grater on the counter to capture freshly grated Parm or Asiago. Again, just trying not to dirty a plate or cutting board.

I ran these at 325 degrees through three 45-minute cycles, turning after each, with an extra ten min tagged on to the end (no good reason, just wasn't ready to yank them yet). Here's a look at what came out:



So, I took that cup/cup and a half of braising liquid and a tablespoon of butter and reduced them in a saute pan for about five minutes while the shank and veg were under the broiler. Here's what it looked like on the plate, and some final thoughts. The recipe follows.





RECIPE:

2 - 1lb lamb shanks
1 small yellow squash
1 medium green zucchini
1 large carrot
2 ribs celery
1 medium white onion
1 sprig of rosemary
3 roma tomatoes, peeled and crushed with their juices
2/3 cup dry red wine (Barolo used here)
2 cups veal stock
olive oil
salt & pepper

PREP:

Preheat oven to 325 degrees
Wash vegetables, peel carrot and squash. Chop into sticks. Chop onion into large half-orbit slices (there's gotta be a formal name for this cut, but I don't know what it is). Peel tomatoes and crush, holding aside. Salt & pepper lamb shanks.

COOKING:

Heat French oven over med-hi heat, add olive oil. Brown shanks as best possible, remove from oven and hold aside. Add additional olive oil if necessary, then add onion. Cook onion through for 3-5 minutes, then add vegetables. Salt & pepper. Cook until vegetables are hot and softening, approx. 5 minutes. Add red wine, deglaze. Allow alcohol to burn off. Add rosemary sprig, veal stock and tomatoes. Season with salt & pepper. Bring to a steady simmer. Add shanks back to braise, less than 1/4 submerged in the liquid. Press parchment paper down to trap the steam in right to the top of the meat. Cover, place in oven.

Turn the meat over every 45 minutes. Total cooking time = 2:30.

FINISH:

Turn broiler to high. Transfer meat to a cookie sheet. Remove vegetables from liquid and set aside. Add remaining liquid to a saute pan with one tablespoon of butter per 1.5 cups of liquid remaining. Reduce for five to seven minutes while meat is gaining additional color under the broiler. Add sauce back to meat and vegetables while plating.

Otis Eats Wasabi For $40

Whoops?

Looks like a recent remark I made about a recent dining experience outed someone's relationship in a low-rent gossip blog.

Uh, whoops?

Try Again Easy...

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Shock and Awe

From the You Can't Make This Up Dept.TM:

The Chicago Sun-Times reports...

Former Gov. Rod Blagojevich's brother solicited U.S. Sen. Roland Burris for up to $10,000 in campaign cash before Blagojevich named Burris to the coveted post -- something Burris initially failed to disclose under oath before an Illinois House impeachment panel, records and interviews show.

Is anyone surprised?

Burris' statement offers the third version of events he has given about his discussions concerning the Senate seat, to which Blagojevich appointed him in late December, after Blagojevich was hit with federal corruption charges that included an allegation he tried to sell the Senate appointment.

In politics, Democrats have to keep changing the story until you come up with a version that everyone the press can live with.

This little situation could get a ugly for Burris. He could get his corrupt ass kicked out of Congress just like Dodd, Rangel, Murtha and Stevens. Oh wait, he's Democrat, he'll get a free pass from the press. In fact, it's probably the last we'll hear of it.

Photos of today's front pages of:

Washington Post
New York Times
Pittsburgh Tribune-Review
Seattle Times

Oh wait, it did get reported. Even on the front page of eventheliberal insertnameofpaperhere.

You know what they say about assumptions... Except, you know, you can cut the "me" out that old saw.

Things Worth Mentioning

Had dinner at The Publican last night with DP and Grubby. The restaurant's concept is "Oysters, Pork and Beer," (no, really.), and it really fucking works.

We started off with a Belgian trappist, moved into a dozen oysters followed by a sampler of fine hams from across the world, then shifted gears to a Surly Mild. The Surly sucked (a "session" beer, says Chad - "Does this beer even have a taste?," says DP), but the entrees we started to devour absolutely did not.

The first pass included pork marrow, piping hot in the bones, and pork shoulder with littleneck clams and fingerling potatoes. The marrow was a first for all of us, and was really fucking good. Spread on some high-end sourdough it had an earthy molten awesomeness to it, and is something I'm not going to be scared off of anymore. The shoulder/clam dish worked like a charm too. There was a small puddle of a tomato broth that gave the whole thing a sort of cioppino (sp) look and feel, and the little burst of having all those flavors in your mouth at the same time was worth the price of admission.

More food came, along with some Alpha King. We were graced with a barbecue octopus, which was a little sweeter than, but still reminiscent of, unagi at a sushi joint. The other dish brought at this time was a potee of three kinds of pork: rib, tenderloin and this holy-fucking-shit pork belly sausage patty that just knocked me for a loop. The patty tasted fresh and medium-rare, and didn't have any fat texture to it at all, despite being constructed entirely of pork belly. That little piece of sausage was a revelation. Never had anything like it before, despite how rustic and simple the flavor was.

We knew we were still hungry when those two plates arrived, so Grubby ordered one more - a barbecued country rib platter cooked in pomegranite and kimchi. The meat had that charcoal caramelization around the sweetness of the pomegranite (although the kimchi was buried), and an outstanding texture, considering the cut is usually in need of serious slow cooking to achieve tenderness. I can't tell you what they did to get those country ribs to be as easy to eat off the grill as they were, but I'd like to find out.

So, the only real misses for me were the tenderloin out of the potee (a nice piece of meat, but nothing remotely close to special) and the Surly Mild. I'd give the trappist, octopus, marrow and belly sausage all an A+ grade, and the rest a solid A.

Total experience? A-grade for food, B+ for service (manager and bussers were outstanding, server was buried and took his time - which was alright by us, but he wasn't as attentive as he could have been).

As it got late and the restaurant started emptying out we got to meet the assistant manager (hot, and enthusiastic about food - and dating the chef de cuisine at Alinea, apparently) and chatted her up a little bit. The restaurant has been packed since the day they opened, and has received great reviews. I'm actually a little surprised that's the case, because the menu is either something you're really going to get, or something that isn't going to make sense at all. It's a pleasant surprise that all the critics were onboard, because this place was worth it.

We're taking you there if you're coming to Gentile Summit. Tables are booked.

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The best purchase I made in 2008 was Apple TV. I'm going to get a little evangelical for a minute, but I firmly believe that if you've got an HDTV, cable modem, and a sound system of any sort hooked up, this rig will change your home theater experience.

More specifically, it's the combination of Apple TV and Boxee that has changed the way I listen to my music and watch TV. Here's the breakdown:

MUSIC: My CDs have been sitting in a closet for close to three years, and Apple TV further cements their place as backup hard copies to something far more convenient than a six-disc changer can offer. My entire iTunes library lives on the Apple TV box, and since the box runs its audio content out via digital optical audio to my amp/speakers, I've got my entire music collection at my command at all times. All my playlists, all my songs, and even the ability to shop the iTunes store via the Apple TV menu and internet connection. The only complaints I have are of the nitpicky variety (can't manage the music via Apple TV for ratings or playlists, for instance, but I have a computer at hand for that), and the cool things like the cover art screen saver more than make up for it.

MOVIES: How easy is it to rent and watch a movie on iTunes? Takes roughly two minutes from when you make your purchase to when enough is buffered to begin viewing. Also, there's a growing segment of the content that's delivered in (720p, not 1080p, but I can't tell the difference) HD. It's super easy. Add to that a variety of software solutions that help you rip or repurpose content for upload to Apple TV, and it couldn't be simpler to relax with some popcorn in front of the tube.

TV: Two angles here... first of all, you can either buy or upload your content, or you get Boxee. Boxee is a program that uploads to the Apple TV which provides access to sites like Comedy Central, CBS and Hulu. Granted, the video quality can be shaky, but the amount of content out there to view is staggering.

EXTRAS: How about your flickr account on a 42" HDTV? How about Youtube? My favorite, though, is access to the podcasts store in iTunes. Plenty of short form video, along with all sorts of professional and amateur audio content free at the click of a button.

Seriously, aside from Michigan State basketball on ESPN and Big Ten Network, I haven't watched anything except my local channels or stuff off the Apple TV in two weeks or more. There's enough on that box and on the net to keep me satisfied through the rest of the year - and plenty of room left on the 160GB hard drive for more.

Huge find. Highly recommended.

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Got a call from "Fredo Speech Girl" today. She asked, "What the hell is your ex-wife thinking?" Turns out, the ex tried to friend FSG on Facebook, somehow forgetting they have been mortal enemies for years. As a matter of fact, one of the big hesitations my ex had getting engaged to me was that I used to run around with FSG. So FSG calls, I get a giggle out of it, and remain as anonymous on Facebook as my five-time All-Star pseudonymous identity allows.

You know I only mention this because there's an off-chance the ex reads this blog, and I know it will irritate her that I'm good friends with FSG again. And that FSG called me about her. That's all.

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Memo to G-Vegas: We'll see you in two weeks.

Freezer Inventory

2 jars homemade Italian pork and beans
1 container of homemade Bolognese
1 pound meatballs
1/2 bar of Norwegian chocolate
1/2 lb whole milk mozzarella
1/2 lb chihuahua Mexican cheese
1 baby bottle of Soco
1 slice of Key Lime pie
6 lbs coffee beans, various types (bought here, recommended)
9 lbs veal bones
3/4 lb bacon
12 cups veal stock, in containers and ice cube trays
9 chicken breasts, boneless skinless
8 pork loin chops, boneless
2 veal shanks (ossobucco)
2 lamb shanks
2 meatloaves, beef/veal/pork/andouille
2 links Andouille sausage

Open Letter

RMS,

I read what you sent over. Combed over it like it was the Zapruder tape, in fact. I must have sketched a half dozen paragraphs in three or four emails unsent in an effort to analyze, question and understand.

Honestly, every time I try to posit some sort of theory behind your words, I get hung up. Hung up on my own context, my own bias. It's making it difficult for me to read and parse and really understand how you saw you and I, what it all meant to you.

The main theme was one of salvation. Resignation that salvation can't be delivered everywhere you'd like it to be. That much I understand. And I guess I need to make sure I state, for the record, that I'm not assuming that what you sent is totally without hyperbole either.

So, that being said...

It only took about ten minutes with you before my intent was no longer casual. You impressed me. Still do. And I tend to want to be able to say that about my friends and girlfriends. You're a beautiful woman, and I'm still terribly fond of you.

The thing is, you were the right woman in the right place at the right time. More than anything to me, you were my ego at a time when I needed it the most. I spent a long time wandering in frustration and had finally found myself on the brink of something positive. I was jumping blind ito the void, and still didn't feel as if I knew who I was to even be granted the opportunity to jump.

My self-worth was tied to an old image of myself. One that had buckled under instead of bracing through the storm. I saw myself as incapable, worthless. As it was a woman who knocked me down, it was another who helped me find my legs to stand again.

I wanted to know you, because you were worth knowing. I wanted to talk to you, because you were worth talking to. I wanted to impress you, because you were worth impressing.

Mainly, though, I wanted you to believe in me so I knew I was worth the effort.

It's really unfair to put this on you. Obviously, you were more than just symbolism and self-help to me. I love a woman who can banter, not to mention one who is interesting and intriguing. I wanted to know you not just because I felt good being around you, but because you were genuinely engaging and fun to be around.

Eventually, my bruised ego came back to health, and we were left with a friendship and long-distance relationship that started to carry expectations just under the surface that I wasn't prepared to handle. That's on me. I handled that poorly, and it's on me that I read what you sent my way and am having a hard time understanding completely where your head is/was at. I don't believe there's anything wrong with a relationship that has run its course, or someone deciding they're going to be a little selfish, so long as the potential for real damage is acknowledged and closure is allowed, if pursued.

I probably let everything slip a little too casually, and I really apologize for that. You deserved better than the gradual disengagement I gave you, and I should have known you well enough to know that you weren't going to thrash and wail and demand an explanation. Therefore, I should have had the courtesy to talk to you about where my head and heart were, and given you the opportunity to talk about it with me too.

I'm sorry.

Some of these things did turn out okay, you know. I'm as satisfied with who I am mentally and emotionally as I've ever been in my life. And I know you're happily engaged, for which I share your happiness. We weren't a likely pair to go on forever, and I think you knew that. But know that while we were talking daily and seeing each other when we could, I never thought for a minute that we weren't together.

I do wonder what you meant in that second to last paragraph when you say what was wrecked. I'd like to think that my sins were of silence and disengagement, and not something I said on my way out the (proverbial) door.

I never played at my fondness for you. Know that much, at least, alright?

T.

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